Working Translation: 10/18/2005

Okay gang, by popular demand, here is our translation in one place. A WARNING to those just starting - this is a working translation, and subject to revision. Your best bet is not to work from this alone, but to work from the French pattern using this as a guidepost. Any feedback / edits / suggestions are appreciated!

Colchique: Working Translation 10/18/2005

SIZES
(1) 4/6 (2) 8/10 (3) 12/14 (4) 16/18 (5) 20/22

YARN
...

NEEDLES
3.5mm / US 4

NOTIONS
2 stitch markers (?)
3 27mm buttons

STITCHES USED
- Cotes fantaisie (see diagram)
- Pt. fantaisie no. 1 and no.2 (see diagrams)
- "Godron stitch": 2 rows of reverse stockinette, 2 rows of stockinette; keep repeating these 4 rows
- Simple decreases 5 stitches from the edge: Proceed in pattern until 7 stitches remain, k2tog, k to end
- Double decreases 5 stitches from the edge: Proceed in pattern until 8 stitches remain, k3tog, k to end
- Stockinette stitch

GAUGE
Important: It is crucial that you choose a yarn that matches gauge (duh).
10 cm = 25 st. and 30 rows of pt. fantaisie no. 1 on US 4 needles
10 cm = 20 st. and 32 rows of Godron stretched length-wise on US 4 needles

BACK
X --> Cast on 1) 104 2) 108 3)120 4) 132 5) 144 stitches. With US 4 needles, knit in "cotes fantaisie" (see diagram), starting with the 1) 3rd 2) first 3) 9th 4) 3rd 5) 11th stitch on the diagram. Work in cotes fantaisie for 12 cm. One of the sections of 4 stitches in stockinette will be at the center of your work.

triangle --> Continue in point fantaisie no. 1 (see diagram) for 14 cm. You will repeat those 16 rows twice, then complete the first 10 rows once.

square triangle --> When the work has reached 26 cm. total, continue in godron stitch... on your first row decrease 1)22 2)20 3)24 4)28 5)28 stitches evenly across the work. 1) 82 2) 88 3) 96 4) 104 5) 116 stitches remain.

square --> Complete 11cm (36 rows) of godron. Form the raglan: bind off 3 stitches on each side of the work (??), then:

sz1) *4 rows up, bind off 1 stitch, two rows up bind off 1 stitch, and another two rows up bind off 1 stitch.* Repeat these rows (* to *) 5 times. (I think this has to mean 5 repeats total, not 1 + 5 repeats, because of the way the numbers work out later, see below) Then, bind off one stitch every other row 9 times (9 bound off over 18 rows).

sz2) *4 rows up, bind off 1 stitch, then bind off 1 stitch every other row over next 6 rows.* Repeat these 10 rows (* to *) 5 times. Then bind off one stitch every other row 11 times.

sz3) Bind off one stitch on the 4th row and 1 stitch on the 8th row. Then bind off one stitch every other row 29 times (29 stitches bound off over 58 rows).

sz4) Bind off one stitch every other row 34 times (34 bound off over 68 rows).

sz5) err, not sure on this one, but I think it's like this:

Row 1: work even
Row 2: bind off 2 stitches each side
Row 3: work even
Row 4: bind off 1 stitches each side
Row 5: work even
Row 6: bind off 1 stitches each side
Row 7: work even
Row 8: bind off 1 stitches each side

Repeat rows 1-8 4 times, then bind off one stitch every other row 20 times. (20 stitches bound off over 40 rows).

Meanwhile, at ...

1) 29 cm (92 rows) 2) 30 cm (96 rows) 3) 31 cm (100 rows) 4) 32 cm (102 rows) 5) 33 cm (106 rows) of godron stitch, form the neckline by binding off the 1)2)3) 12 4)5) 14 center stitches. Then continue one side at a time, binding off the side of the neckline 4 stitches every other row 2 times.

FRONT:

Knit as for back until you have reached the end of the “point fantaisie no. 1" section (work measures 26 cm).

Square triangle:
Continue in Godron stitch and “point fantaisie no. 2” (see diagram) as follows: On the first row, knit across 1) 43 2) 45 3) 51 4) 57 5) 63 sts while decreasing 1) 11 2) 10 3) 12 4) 14 5) 14 sts evenly across these sts, then proceed in “point fantaisie no. 2” for the next 18 sts, then knit across remaining 1) 43 2) 45 3) 51 4) 57 5) 63 while again decreasing 1) 11 2) 10 3) 12 4) 14 5) 14 sts. At this point you will have 1) 82 2) 88 3) 96) 4) 104 5) 116 sts.

Square:
Continue in Godron stitch for 11 cm (36 rows), then bind off 3 sts on each side, then:
1) *4 rows up bind off 1 st, then every other row bind off 1 st over next 4 rows.* Repeat these 8 rows (* to *) 5 times total (40 rows worked). Next, bind off one st every other row 6 times (6 bound off over 12 rows). 52 rows worked.
2) *4 rows up bind off 1 stitch, then every other row bind off 1 st over next 6 rows.* Repeat these 10 rows (* to *) 4 times total (40 rows worked). Next, bind off one st every other row 8 times (8 sts bound off over 16 rows). 56 rows worked.
3) Every fourth row, bind off 1 st; do this twice (8 rows worked). Next, bind off 1 st every other row 26 times. (26 sts bound off over 52 rows). 60 rows worked.
4) Bind off 1 st every other row 31 times. (31 sts bound off over 62 rows).
5) *Bind off 2 sts at beginning of next two rows, then bind off 1 st three times every other row over next six rows.* Repeat these 8 rows (* to *) 4 times total (32 rows worked). Next, bind off 1 st every other row 17 times (17 sts bound off over 34 rows). 66 rows worked.

At this point the Godron stitch section should measure 1) 25 cm (80 rows); 2) 26 cm (84 rows); 3) 27 cm (88 rows); 4) 28 cm (90 rows); 5) 29 cm (94 rows). To form the neckline bind off the center 1)2)3) 10 sts 4)5) 12 sts. Continue knitting one side at a time, binding off at the neckline edge every other row, first binding off 4 sts, next 3 sts, next 2 sts, and lastly, one st.

The Godron stitch section should now measure 1) 28.5 cm (90 rows) 2) 29.5 cm (94 rows) 3) 30.5 cm (98 rows) 4) 31.5 cm (100 rows) 5) 32.5 cm (104 rows). Bind off the remaining 2 sts.

LEFT SLEEVE (Without Thumb)
X --> Cast on 1) 58 2)62 3) 68 4) 72 5) 78 stitches, and knit in cotes fantaisie (see diagram), starting with the 1) 12th 2) 10th 3) 7th 4) 5th 5) 2nd stitch of the diagram.

That's as far as I got before becoming mighty confused. The next line says "Augm. de ch. cote en reconstituant les cotes au fur et a mesure des augm:"

The closest thing to a translation I have is:

"Increase on each side [matching?] the sides as you go along." Doesn't make much sense, does it?

Anyway, the next part is...

my calculations for entire lower sleeve, by size:
size 1) cast on 58 st, work in cotes fantasie beginning with 12th stitch in diagramme. Increase 1 st ea side every 14th row 3 times, then increase 1 st ea side every 16th row 3 times. 70 st, Change from cotes fantasie to pt fantasie #1 after 21 cm (8.25"), continuing increases as written.

size 2) cast on 62 st, work in cotes fantasie beginning with 10th stitch of diagramme. Increase 1 st ea side at 10th row, then increase 1 st ea side every 12th row 7 times. 78 st Change from cotes fantasie to pt fantasie #1 after 21 cm (8.25"), continuing increases as written

size 3) cast on 68 st, work in cotes fantasie beginning with 7th stitch of diagramme. Increase 1 st ea side every 8th row 2 times, then increase 1 st ea side every 10th row 8 times. 88 st Change from cotes fantasie to pt fantasie #1 after 21 cm (8.25"), continuing increases as written

size 4) cast on 72 st, work in cotes fantasie beginning with 5th stitch of diagramme. Increase 1 st ea side every 6th row 7 times, then increase 1 st ea side every 8th row 7 times. 100 st, Change from cotes fantasie to pt fantasie #1 after 21 cm (8.25"), continuing increases as written

size 5) cast on 78 st, work in cotes fantasie beginning with 2nd stitch of diagramme. Increase 1 st ea side every 6th row 15 times, then increase 1 st ea side on the 8th row 1 times. 110 st, Change from cotes fantasie to pt fantasie #1 after 21 cm (8.25"), continuing increases as written add 1 more stitch

Upper sleeve translation to come…